The Wedding

Returning to Cartagena was like returning to safety. A weight had been lifted off of my shoulders, one I hadn’t realized was there. Just being someplace familiar, someplace I knew, someplace I could easily navigate, was a relief. The rawness I had been feeling since my bag was stolen had finally begun to heal over. The belongings, even the most precious ones, were no longer invading my peaceful moments. In a few days’ time I would be with people I knew. I would get the hugs that up till then had only been virtual. I was coming home, in a sense. Taking a break from the unfamiliar and enveloping myself in a blanket of ease.

The wedding would be a three day affair, so I utilized my free days to relax and regain my sense of security. I met up with one of the other guests, a lovely woman who had also attended Davis and we got our nails done together. I can’t remember the last time I had my nails done. I can almost guarantee that the dark blue polish on my toes will remain there for several months…until my nails have completely grown out.

Later that night, the Ave Maria sailing group got together and we talked, drank, and sang karaoke at Hostel La Antigua. A homey place owned by a Georgian who had married a Colombia.

Now before we get into the wedding let me just preface with: I have never attended a Colombian or Latin American wedding before, I had no idea what to expect, and I all of it honestly feels like a dream.

The bride’s grandparents were hosting a welcome dinner at the Portuario in Cartagena. The approximately 200 guests met at a dock in front of the strip of high rises known as Bocagrande. Lazy clouds blocked the sky so the only stars were the reflections of the windows on the water.

A catamaran pulled up to the dock and several servers came ashore to distribute Prosecco and fruit popsicles. Once everyone had arrived, we moved onto the vessel, additional waiters offered trays of ceviche, crab, and spring rolls with shrimp.

The pathway entering the port was lined with macaws and monkeys. Each was held by a trainer allowing the guests to interact and take pictures. Flamingos squawked at each other from the edge of the pond in their enclosure.

The courtyard was covered but a canopy of branches that cautiously sent their stranglers down in search of soil. Three large tables of “mini-foods” occupied one corner. We, the gringos, chose a table near the bar, behind which stood a trellis covered in red and blue macaws.

The night was very informal…though not in the sense of attire. There was no speech or announcement. People migrated between the buffet and their tables. Eventually a band came out and played for the party. I still cannot comprehend how the performers were not covered in sweat from the humidity and heat of the lights.

I danced a bit but mainly sat and enjoyed the splendor. The bride was beautiful in a tiered red dress. Not once did the smile fade from her face.

Around midnight we were shuttled back to the dock by the catamaran and returned to our hotels.

We were blessed with clear skies on our journey to Punta Iguana the following morning. Three speed boats ferried us over to the island where we would sip coconut lemonade and lounge on beach chairs. After the four day journey through San Blas I had had enough of sand, so I positioned myself by one of the pools and soaked up the cool breezes and sun.

Halfway through the day we were assembled for lunch. We sat under the shade of the trees and chatted amiably, sipping wine and feasting on coconut rice, salad, skewers of vegetables and meat, and coconut pie.

A few hours later we were back on the boats and headed for Cartagena. That night we were to meet on the rooftop of a boutique hotel in Old Town before heading to a club.

Laura had arrived from The States while I was on the island. I was so excited to have her there with me. She was kind enough to not only bring my dress for the wedding but also several items that I needed to replace. We showered, dressed, and headed to Crepes and Waffles (my favorite place for dessert) to meet the other gringos for dinner.

From the roof of the restaurant we had a clear view of the hotel. It was still two hours before the party and already music was blaring along with colorful flashing lights.

We arrived fashionably late and once again discovered servers walking around with horderves and drinks. Most people gathered on the upper levels of the roof, by the pool.

But a few of us snuck up to a little secluded area where the music was a manageable level. The bride joined us for a bit and we chatted about her struggles with planning the wedding. She told us about how she wanted light pink roses, figuring this was an easy request. The florist however responded by showing her about ten different shades of light pink rose…not so easy anymore.

The groom called her away and the rest of us made room for a mariachi band. Once they had concluded their serenade, the bride and groom thanked everyone for coming and told us we would shortly be migrating to the club.

Not three minutes after the speeches, a huge firework display lit up the town square. From the rooftop we were perfectly positioned to see everything clearly. It was too perfect in fact. The groom casually admitted the fireworks were indeed intended for our party.

I was tired from a day in the sun as was Laura from thirteen hours of travel, so at around midnight we bid farewell to the bride. The rest of the group went out to a club for a few hours where they had a private section designated for the wedding party.

Laura and I slept in and spent the next day taking it easy. The wedding was set to start at seven in the evening and the bride had informed us that she expected to see us at sunrise the next day when the reception would come to an end.

The church was classically beautiful, with a solid row of flowers lining the aisle between the pews. It was a small wedding party: only a few flower girls and a ring bearer.

Everyone held their breath as the two massive carved wooden doors were pulled apart to reveal the bride and her father. She was a vision. Her dress wasn’t exorbitant, it was simple lace with a medium train. Tears filled my eyes as she passed, as often happens at weddings.

The ceremony was a traditional Catholic wedding mass. At its conclusion we were shuttled to the reception in large buses.

Walls of flowers, arches of flowers, ceilings of flowers, there were real flowers almost everywhere you turned. Most of the gringos were at the same table, we each had three glasses: one for water, one for wine, one for champagne. Every table had its own server who cleared our plates and brought us whatever we needed.

Two tables filled with cheese stood outside the entrance to the dining area. I love cheese! I was beyond happy! After appetizers we were led to a buffet of endless options: ceviche, prime rib, lobster tails, salads, rice, risotto, mashed potatoes, carved turkey with gravy. I’ll admit I was full after one plate.

Thankfully there was an espresso bar to help us make it through the night. We ate and talked, danced and talked, laughed and danced. Making a cheers at the mark of every hour. The bride did a traditional waltz with her father, husband, and then any other male who wished to join her, concluding the dance with her father and husband. A live band came out. Desserts were served. A glass tumbled to the floor somewhere in the distance. A DJ took over, and we danced. Then a second band came out and I went to get more cheese.

The night flew by and before we knew it the windows were lit with the faint hue of dawn. At 6:00 we were slowly herded out of the hall and then it hit me, “Wait! What about this beautiful cake.” A multi-tiered wedding cake stood across the lobby from the cheese tables, untouched. The bride casually waved her hand, “It’s a fake cake.”

Several of us rushed over to it laughing. It was indeed a styrofoam cake covered in real frosting…which was actually quite delicious.

The night was over and the dream was coming to an end. We all knew it happened, but it still feels unreal. It was a beautiful wedding, not only because of the events and decor, but because of the shared joy that was undeniably apparent between the bride and groom.

Congratulations Cristy and Flavio, much love and well wishes!