Narcos and New Beginnings
Medellín, the former stomping grounds of the drug lord and killer Pablo Escobar.
For those of you who are not familiar with this man, here is what you need to know. Colombians have drastically different opinions about him. Young, hot heads looking for easy money and a “better” life, tend to envision him as an idol. Popular shows, like Narcos, only amplify these sentiments. One of his former mansions was turned into a paintball arena. I highly doubt visitors truly realize the number of lives that were violently lost in their “playing field.”
The people who lived during his prime, however, have scars that run deep.
I spent one of my two days on a free walking tour of the city. Our guide was a native of Medellín and had grown up during the days of Escobar. Her uncle was one of the many who had been taken. When her family paid the ransom, instead of returning the man, Escobar had him killed. This was not uncommon.
She told us many people would rather forget “The Criminal” ever existed. For example, one day she asked her father for more details about what happened to her uncle. He responded with, “I don’t remember,” and left the room. She made a point of never saying Escobar’s name throughout the tour, not wishing it to draw the attention of passerby.
We walked through streets that would not have been safe ten years before. Medellín is a city of hope and progress. Rather than destroy the past the people have modified it for the better. For example, there are two buildings that once housed prostitutes, drug addicts, and homeless; they are now public sectors of education.
The transformation is not complete; there are multiple areas of the city where gun violence remains an issue. One of the other tours provided by the company Free City Tours, is a graffiti walk through Comuna 13. In the description it warns that this area is still very volatile; just a week before I was there people on the tour had to take shelter in a local home to wait for the gun fire to end.
Unlike some cities where the locals despise tourists, in Medellín the people could not be happier to see them. We had multiple people walk up to our group, welcome us to Colombia, and thank us for being there. Ten years ago, tourists didn’t exist in Medellín. It was too dangerous. The presence of them today is a clear indication of the changes taking place, changes for the better.
Another interesting feature of the town is the metro. There is no trash on the metro, or graffiti. Acts of crime are rare. Our guide said this is because it is the pride and joy of the city; people not only respect the metro but it brings out the best in them.
Though churches are meant to be places of penance and worship, there is one in particular that serves as a rendezvous for sinners. Prostitutes of various ages stand around the plaza and make sideways deals with lonely men. Once a price is agreed upon, they relocate to a hotel that charges by the hour – there are several in the area. Afterwards they return to the church and pray for forgiveness. Our guide referred to this as “treating religion like soap” – they commit the sin then wash their hands of it.
The tour ended at sunset in a plaza that was empty, save for two almost identical bird statues. They were forged from the same mold, but one was rent with gaping holes, while the other was smooth and pure.
Back in 1995 there was only one statue and during a concert, someone placed a backpack underneath it. In the middle of the event the pack explored, killing thirty and injuring over two hundred. Initially the mayor wanted the destroyed statue to be removed as soon as possible. Before he could act, however, he received a call from none other than Fernando Botero, the artist. Botero insisted the statue remain; he believed if it was taken away people would forget – like they had with so many other violent tragedies. Instead he constructed a second identical statue to stand beside its broken brother.
They represent the past, violent and destructive; and the future, strong, hopeful, and determined.
From the plaza, I ventured to Pueblo Paisa with two guys I had met on the walking tour. It provides a bird’s eye view of the surrounding city. As darkness fell and the lights of the city came to life, I thought about all the things I hadn’t had time for in Medellín and vowed to one day return.
