Te Araroa: The Part Between Two Rivers

12.02.2020 Day 107 (20km)

It could have been a very long day if we hadn’t gotten a lift, but let me go back to the beginning. We had a late start from Hamilton Hut, having not one, but two morning coffees. The plan was to camp at a free site, not too far down the trail, then have a long walk along a rural gravel road the following day. 

Valley strolls and mild river crossings were the theme of the track, allowing us to keep a good pace and walk next to each other for ease of conversation. Unfortunately, we arrived to find the camp extremely lacking. None of us wanted to stay there, which meant 22km of additional walking and then an attempted hitch at the end. Mind you, it was already past midday. 

Will and Alex started chatting with a couple of workers who had come to clean the toilet at the campsite. They had one more stop to make, but would be more than happy to pick us up on their way back to town. There were five of us, and part of me had a feeling things weren’t going to work out. Perhaps it was the fact that there were only three seats in the car, or maybe that each of us had a large pack to fit in as well. 

Sure enough, an hour later they rolled up with another hiker occupying one of the three seats. Not wanting to cause a fuss, I told Alex and Will to take the last two spots; they had, after all, arranged the entire thing. The three of us remaining, began the long 22km walk down the gravel road, a walk that would likely take the rest of the day and leave us utterly knackered. Still, I kept my hopes up that another kind soul would drive by and take us with them. 

Trail magic strikes again: ten minutes later we were on our way the Methven with a man who had been up in the mountains for a fishing trip. 

The looks on the boys faces when we walked up at the holiday park not five minutes after them, were priceless. They figured it would be a few hours before they saw us again. Once all the accommodations were sorted, we went down to the pub to meet up with Jenny and Ben; the workers, who happened to be married, who had given Will and Alex a lift. 

Though we had only intended to stay for a couple drinks, we ended up spending the entire evening with them, and even went to check out their friend’s home brewing system. It was a night of laughs, good banter, and exceptional company. 

Day’s Highlights: Not having to walk 22km in the hot sun. 

13.02.2020 Day 108 (0km)

After pushing so hard to catch up with everyone, I was super keen for a rest day. The best part was sleeping in and having a hot shower. No, the best part was laying in bed binge watching Netflix. No, no actually, the best part was the stir fry we made for dinner. Well, I mean, I guess the best part was the whole day. 

Day’s Highlights: I kind of already listed them, haha. 

14.02.2020 Day 109 (15km)

It was a dreary day and I wanted nothing more than to stay in the comfy double bed, but with a cyclone due to hit the west coast in a matter of days, it was necessary to push on during the good weather. We were set to take the Alps to Ocean Shuttle back to the trail at noon, having bypassed the Rakaia River. 

Unfortunately, when our driver arrived, we realized that the van had a flat tyre. It took over an hour to get everything sorted and back on the road. At one point, I almost hopped out and said, “Forget it, I’m leaving tomorrow.” I’m glad I didn’t because, unlike Methven, up at the trailhead, the sun was shining and the views were pristine. 

It was an easy-going farm track through tussocks, and there were even switchbacks up the hill instead of the customary vertical climb. Cows and their calves stared at us as we passed, trotting out of the path as we drew near. 

My feet were happy and dry until the final river crossing, which had no rocks for crossing over. Oh well, wet feet is a fact of life on the TA. 

Day’s Highlights: Not having to hike in the rain.

15.02.2020 Day 110 (21km)

My legs look like a seamstress was careless with their needle and stuck me a hundred times over. Although it was a normal kilometer day, the terrain made the going quite slow. 

It began with walking alongside a river. When we came upon the first bend, we crossed over. Then again at the next. Crossing and recrossing until I felt like I was walking in the river rather than beside it. The water levels were so low that there was never any cause for extreme caution or concern. 

Eventually, we moved away from the water and into a field of tussocks and barbed bushes. In the distance a lovely orange pole stuck out of the grass, marking our intended path. There were in fact, multiple “almost tracks” though nothing substantial enough to be considered a real trail. Will, Alex, and I each took different routes, attempting to avoid the thickest bush, and not fall into one of the tiny ravines lining the mountainside like veins. 

I felt one of the spiny plants stab me as I pushed through the tussocks. There would be blood dripping from my leg, but I didn’t bother stopping. Tiny scraps and cuts were second nature on the TA, bruises as well. 

Huffing and puffing, I made it to the top of the saddle. My inhaler had been broken the night before when my pack fell from a hook keeping it away from the mice. I would fix it later with some duct tape. The rest of the day was downhill and I wouldn’t really be needing it. 

After crossing over a series of scree slopes, we came to another tricky tussock section. The track went one way and the markers veered off in another direction. A few rolled ankles later and the track leveled to a wide, 4WD track. I sighed in relief as I walked briskly, gazing out over the expansive grasslands and the gentle rolling mountains. 

Day’s Highlights: Getting out of the fields of spindly plants.

16.02.2020 Day 111 (37km)

Wind kept me awake most of the night, and it didn’t help matters when two hunters rolled up at almost midnight, flooding the hut with light and banging on the door. They didn’t stay, as the hut was already over capacity, but they succeeded in waking us up. 

When I finally did succeed in finding sleep, it was restless, broken by cold sweats and muddled dreams. It was the last thing I needed before a long day, and I woke feeling as though I had been hit by a bus. 

We soared through the weedy fields, pushing against the heaving winds: twelve kilometers knocked out in two hours. I felt like I’d been running, and decided to slow my pace ever so slightly to avoid exhaustion. Next thing I knew I was sitting on the side of a gravel road, filtering water, and longing to stuff my face with food. I was so hungry I was almost nauseous. 

Unfortunately, before I could manage even a bite, Will flagged down a passing car and they agreed to give us a lift down the road to Mt. Sunday, a slight detour from the TA. I hastily packed my things and hopped in, attempting to ignore the angry growling of my stomach. It wasn’t that far, but by the time we arrived I was ready to rip heads off if I didn’t get something in me. 

Once my hunger was satiated, we climbed to the top of Mt Sunday, the filming location of Edoras in Lord of the Rings. Misty clouds clung to the surrounding valleys, rising up from the river like smoke. Light rain decorated our faces, specks of glitter in the dusty light. Standing atop the mountain, I leaned against the wind and soaked up the endless view. 

We really hadn’t planned how we were getting to the next resupply town of Geraldine. There was a shuttle option, which was expensive, but we had initially hoped for a hitch. In the weather though, the outlook was grim. So we set off walking towards the shuttle location; Will and Alex keeping the quick pace of the morning. I hung back a bit, and was pleasantly surprised when a van pulled over and offered me a lift. I asked if there was room for three of us and they said they could make it work. Will and Alex watched from a distance and I’m pretty sure they thought I was going to leave them…silly boys. 

Day’s Highlights: Standing on top of Mt Sunday. 

17.02.2020 Day 112 (0km)

The number of rest days I’ve been taking in South Island is definitely more than North Island, but they feel entirely necessary. There are days on trail that I feel like my body is falling apart bit by bit and I worry that by the time I finish the TA, there will be nothing left. Then I have a rest day and somehow everything has come back together enough to push on. 

Day’s Highlights: Coffee in bed…what a luxury!