Te Araroa: The Timber Trail
29.11.2019 Day 40 (32km)
I finished putting up my tent just before the rain came. The flat patch of grass hidden amongst the pines in the timber yard would have fit more than one, but it appeared I would be the sole occupant for the night. It was only five, but already I wanted to lay down and close my eyes.
I was getting used to 30km days, but the way had been uneven, always threatening to roll an ankle.
From Te Kuiti, the TA hugged the side of a river, travelling up and down through the hills. It wasn’t long before the dew soaked through my shoes and I felt like I was strolling through the stream rather than next to it. At times the track was nothing wider than a balance beam, threatened by erosion and weather.
There were a few strange stiles: one was entirely on the opposite side of the fence, so you couldn’t actually use it to climb the fence. A downed tree completely blocked another. People had come in and placed new markers to indicate that you should go under the tree. The only issue was the fence was still there but there was nothing to climb over it. So I had to shimmy under the tree, then lift myself over the fence while not crashing into rouge branches on the other side.
Everything was an adventure verging on the ridiculous. The only part that got me a bit anxious was the walk along a vertical hillside. The trail wasn’t clear, with multiple tracks traveled by previous hikers and farm animals alike. Each of them was narrow, with occasional gaps. I couldn’t help but wonder, “Do the people who designed this part realize they were building it for people, not mountain goats?” Funnily enough I did see several goats grazing along the way.
After the steep hills the trail pulled away from the river and through a paddock of bullocks; thankfully they were still at the age where they were afraid of me. Although I could tell some of them were on the cusp of losing their fear, having it replaced by aggression. Then I followed a gravel road up into the hills, where I came to my secluded camp spot.
Day’s Highlights: Seeing the cool looking goats.
30.11.2019 Day 41 (43km)
Other than stepping in someone else’s poo, cause they didn’t have the decency to dig a hole, the timber camp was idyllic. I slept deeper than I ever have on the trail, which was important because I had a huge day planned. I wasn’t sure if I could do it, but I was definitely going to try.
I must say road walking does tend to kill a little piece of my soul every time I do it. After 25km of gravel country roads and a bit of highway, I was almost ready to call it a day and camp just before the Timber Trail. I’m glad I didn’t.
Walking into the forest was like stepping into a hot shower after a cold day; within seconds all of the negativity from the road was washed away. I was completely lost in the tinted green sunlight filtering down through the canopy, the trilling bird songs that flew through the branches, and the light call of the water as in bathed the smooth stone in the streams.
Timber Trail ran through old logging forests, although there were a few sections, like the first part, where the foliage was left undisturbed. Many people choose to bike the trail, though I found walking it more enjoyable…probably cause I’m not a big fan of biking hills. I climbed gradually, mostly under the cover of trees, but occasionally I came out to an exposed area where signs of the logging past were quite obvious.
Rain clouds began to close in, urging me to push on faster to get to Bog Inn Hut, my home for the night. I was making great time until I ran into a cyclist and got caught in a really good conversation about hiking, bounce boxes, and the TA in general. Tom had been cycling around the country and made a point of stopping to get to know every TA hiker he encountered. He assured me I was almost to the hut, then waved goodbye, and continued in the opposite direction.
Day’s Highlights: Lying down at the end of the day.
01.12.2019 Day 42 (35km)
During any given day on this trail, I experience a plethora of emotions. One minute I feel like shit and every part of me hurts; the next I could fly if my pack weren’t holding me down. I’ve noticed it has a lot to do with my environment: road walk, forest, beach.
Today was all through the forests, on a very well maintained path, and there were suspension bridges….I LOVE suspension bridges. I think they are just the coolest things! Despite the fact that I did over 40km yesterday, I found myself wanting to push on again today. I was invincible, ignoring the pain of two new blisters and my knee. Logical Amber came forward and struck a deal with the ambitious side. I was approaching a shelter area, if it was after five I would stop, if it was before five I would push on another five kilometers. It was 5:17 and shortly after arriving, it began to rain, which settled it.
The shelter was nothing more than two benches, three walls, and a roof, but I was inclined to make it work for the night rather than pitch my tent in the rain. I used my trekking poles to suspend my footprint in front of the door, to help keep out the rain and wind. Then I set up a bed on one of the benches and a cooking area on the other. My concerns for the night were: rats/mice getting into my food, mozzies attacking while I slept, or falling off of the narrow bench.
Ultimately, if something went wrong I could use my headlamp and set up my tent in the middle of the night. Or just pack up and do a bit of night hiking.
Day’s Highlights: Suspension bridges!!!
02.12.2019 Day 43 (27km hiking, 26km biking)
I don’t know how I thought I could walk over 52km in one day; I must have been in some weird delusional state. From the seat of my bike the road section zoomed by, and I couldn’t help but think of my poor feet and how they would have felt.
Earlier that day, after more suspension bridges and a zen forest walk, I ran into Robyn and Trev taking a break at one of the small shelters. With all the solo hiking I had been doing it was refreshing to have someone to talk to other than myself. We chatted amiably as we continued out of the mountains and into farmland filled with deer. During this section we also passed the 1000km point, although for me it was 900, since I had skipped the bit of road after Auckland.
Upon reaching the free campsite at the end of Timber Trail, Trev had the brilliant idea to ask the companies waiting for bikers if we could hire bikes to head into Taumarunui. My wallet was not keen on spending fifty dollars, but my throbbing footsies were all for it.
Whenever I’m having an internal debate about something, especially things I already know the answer to, I like to ask my mum. I knew what she was going to suggest, but messaged her anyways. After a few contextual questions she encouraged me to hire a bike. By that point, however, I had already paid the fifty dollar and was getting fitted with a helmet.
Another option had been hitching, but I’m glad I persevered. The cloudy landscapes were spectacular and healing. The perfect way to end a very long travel day.
Day’s Highlights: The flatter part of the bike ride, cause I was really able to sit back and relax.
