-
Te Araroa: The Storm That Ends All
Te Araroa: The Storm That Ends All 22.03.2020 Day 146 (16km) Thank goodness it was a short day, because the wind was howling as we walked a pebbly beach towards coastal farmland. One of my gaiters came loose, allowing the tiny rocks to fling themselves into my shoe. With the temperamental weather, I wasn’t keen to stop and remove them. After our final climb of the TA, which was only a couple hundred meters up to a viewpoint, we descended into Riverton’s residential neighborhoods. Alex had booked us an AirBnb, which was so lovely that within a few minutes we decided to reserve it for another day. The weather was…
-
Te Araroa: Storm on the Horizon
13.03.2020 Day 137 (38km) I really love it when things just work out. My original plan had been to hitch out to the Kepler Track two days in a row and do day hikes on either end of the circular track. Upon arriving in Te Anau, I discovered that Aliss had a similar but far superior plan. Her friend Amy was driving down from Wanaka. They were going to start early and hike as far as they could then back out. This eliminated time required for hitching and the risk of having to walk back if no lift could be found. The three of us set out in the wee…
-
Te Araroa: Queenstown
06.03.2020 Day 130 (25km) There are some days when the struggle is real. I didn’t have any reason to be upset today, but all I wanted to do was cry. It’s rare that I truly feel homesick, but today was one of those mornings. I tried calling my mum, but she didn’t answer. So then I plugged into my music and made a futile attempt to swallow the lump in my throat as tears slipped down my cheeks. My heart ached for the smell of fresh coffee; there is always a pot on. It longed for the hug of the couch as I leaned into the armrest, and the deep…
-
Te Araroa: Nelson Lakes
31.01.2020 Day 95 (29km) Today was possibly one of my favorite days on the TA thus far. We strolled out of St Arnaud around 8:30 in the morning and followed the trail as it meandered past the lake and up the river. The path was never steep nor difficult, just a lovely walk in the forest. Initially, the tranquil waves of the lake provided the melody of motion. This was eventually replaced by the constant sigh of the river. We stopped on a grassy bank to sun ourselves as the wind kept most of the sandflies at bay. Then later we dropped our packs and took a short detour down…
-
Te Araroa: The Richmond Ranges (Part II)
27.01.2020 Day 91 (14km) I don’t know if I’ve ever been so terrified in my life. An orange pole stuck out of the ground behind a pile of boulders, marking the summit of Little Mt Rintoul. From where I was standing it seemed clear that the trail wrapped around to the left and met the marker on the other side. Looking back, I think I might have been meant to clamber up over the hill instead. The trail to the left took me out onto a tight ledge with at least a 500 meter sheer drop. Panic welled in my chest as the wind nagged at my pack. I had…
-
Te Araroa: Pelorus River and Richmond Ranges (Part I)
23.01.2020 Day 87 (0km) How on Earth do I have so much food!? I stayed in Nelson today to resupply and hang out with a few hiker friends, although I had initially intended to head back to trail. The next section is supposed to be a doozy, requiring extra food in case of weather delays. I decided to try those Backcountry freeze dried meals because they are light and have a decent amount of calories. Silly me, I didn’t realize just how much space they occupy. It’s ridiculous, I’m going to look like I’m being eaten by my pack because it is so enormous. I honestly think I let what…
-
Te Araroa: Able Tasman
20.01.2020 Day 84 (23km) Well, I’m off the TA again, making up kilometers I skipped on the road sections. My side trip of choice, Able Tasman, a beautiful National Park along the northwest coast of South Island. Sarah and I took an early morning shuttle from Nelson so we could catch the earliest water taxi of the day. They loaded us into the boat at the tour company, then towed it down to the water using a tractor. Since the tides go out by a few kilometers each day, sometimes they have to drive the boats quite far to launch them. We stopped at some iconic rock formations along the…
-
Te Araroa: The Queen Charlotte Track
14.01.2020 Day 78 (0km) It was a beautiful day to take the ferry across to Picton. Birds raced the ship through the harbour and out towards the straight. It still amazes me how clean the water is in this part of the world. Back home, leaving LA, the water is always murky green or brown; but here it’s clear sapphire. I spent most of the voyage chatting with another TA hiker while sitting in the sun at the back of the boat. Occasionally, we moved to one of the upper decks to enjoy the views, especially when we hit the sounds of the South Island. Sarah and I spent the…
-
Te Araroa: North Island Home Stretch
02.01.2020 Day 74 (22km) I’m lying on an old cot in an empty church, as rain patters down on the roof. There are seven TA hikers using this place as a refuge tonight. Since the Christian School closed, the owners decided to start using the space as a shelter for hikers. After six days in the bush, mostly covered in mud, I can’t decide which was better: the hot scone with jam and cream at the cafe or the hot shower at the church. Compared to the Tararuas, today’s hike was a breeze: an 800m climb up a fairly well maintained forest track, then down root stairs and through forestry…
-
Te Araroa: The Tararuas
30.12.2019 Day 71 (15km) I was soaking wet, tired, and hungry, but the second I smelled the fire coming from the hut, I pushed myself into overdrive. It was my first day in the Tararuas and they had met my expectations: difficult and muddy. Within the past two weeks two people I knew personally, had been seriously injured in the mountain range. So, I was absolutely content to take things slowly on the slippery, wet slopes. Rain was my constant companion as I navigated through roots, scampered up rock walls, and climbed up into a bursting green forest, shrouded in mist. Sweat dripped down my face in rivers, and despite…
Insights and Stories Through the Eyes of a Wanderer
