Te Araroa: Nelson Lakes
31.01.2020 Day 95 (29km)
Today was possibly one of my favorite days on the TA thus far. We strolled out of St Arnaud around 8:30 in the morning and followed the trail as it meandered past the lake and up the river. The path was never steep nor difficult, just a lovely walk in the forest. Initially, the tranquil waves of the lake provided the melody of motion. This was eventually replaced by the constant sigh of the river.
We stopped on a grassy bank to sun ourselves as the wind kept most of the sandflies at bay. Then later we dropped our packs and took a short detour down to a beautiful waterfall, to watch it ruffle the surface of a clear turquoise pool.
The vistas of the mountains throughout the day and the shape-shifting clouds were fuel for the soul. Peaceful is the ideal way to describe today. However, it might just be the calm before the storm.
Tomorrow we will ascend 500 meters in less than three kilometers to Travers Saddle. If the winds are too strong, we will be forced to come back down and wait a day before attempting again. At least we had the sun and tranquility of today, especially after seven days of hard work in the Richmond Ranges.
Day’s Highlights: Living
01.02.2020 Day 96 (16km)
All of my fears from yesterday were for naught. Not a single blade of grass was twitching this morning when we woke. The world was the epitome of stillness, a promising sign for the saddle.
The climb was steep but brief, bringing us to a large flat strip of land with mesmerizing views. Other than the occasional puff of wind, it was peaceful there high above the valleys, privy to the whispers of the clouds.
It’s strange, we were at a lower elevation than Big Bear (where I grew up, over 2,000m), and yet the ranges were so much more demanding and humbling than the mountains of Southern California. Perhaps the lower treeline created the illusion of their commanding nature, or perhaps the untamable vastness of the country itself.
Down we trekked into the basin, over a thousand meters. I had been expecting scree, and was pleased to discover the terrain to be predominantly soil and grass. By the time we reached the hut for lunch, I was exhausted and had endured enough downhill for the moment.
From there we crossed the river and followed a fresh cut trail. The original path had been obliterated by floods, maybe even a couple of winter avalanches. Massive trees lay across dried riverbeds, their roots towering over us, still thick with earth.
The flowing river, that the trail followed, was ferocious compared to the one we walked along the previous day. It moved with a swiftness that made me pity any poor souls who dared enter its currents.
Despite it being a relatively short kilometer day, the final eight were utterly brutal. I simply lacked the energy required to keep a spring in my step. The detours around the destroyed areas of the track didn’t help either. Up along the river we climbed on narrow, damp ledges, until finally the track leveled and the hut came into view.
I had been worried about it being crowded, and was surprised to discover I was the first person to arrive. After dropping my pack and claiming a bunk, I wandered down to Blue Lake, one of the clearest fresh water pools in New Zealand. After the long day it was nice to just sit and enjoy the vibrations of nature.
Day’s Highlights: The panoramic views from Travers Saddle
02.02.2020 Day 97 (16km)
I widened my stance and gripped a boulder in front of me as the gale attempted to throw me down to the ground. After almost a minute the wind subsided and I was able to move again. It was as though it had wanted to congratulate me on reaching Waiau Pass, a five hundred meter vertical climb after a three hundred meter forest ascent to Lake Constance.
My calves were burning and I was entirely knackered, but I didn’t care; I’d made it! Lea and I took a little break a bit farther down the other side of the pass, where we were partially sheltered from the wind.
Some of the notes left by other hikers stated that the descent from Waiau Pass required “technical skills.” I had been concerned about this all morning, until I realized that “technical” simply meant you could sit on your bum and scoot down some of the rocks. It was probably one of my favorite descents yet, and before we knew it we were back in the valley, sitting by beside the river eating lunch.
Foolishly, we believed all of the difficult parts were behind us…we should have known better. Through the valley there were multiple bounder hopping sections and scree rock slides. Turns out I have a really good knack for picking the one rock that isn’t stable. This resulted in a fair few stumbles and rolling off the edge of stones. Eventually, the wobbly boulders let up and we were able to walk briskly through open grassy fields, hindered only by the occasional gale that threatened to knock us over.
To my relief there were plenty of beds available when we arrived at Waiau Hut and we were able to spend the afternoon resting our sore bodies and listening to the wind rage outside.
Day’s Highlights: The views while climbing to the pass and making it down before the serious winds hit.
03.02.2020 Day 98 (27km)
The water was fire on my feet, forcing me to bite my lower lip against the pain. Only five steps remained between me and the edge of the river, but I wasn’t sure my feet would still be attached when I arrived. I hopped out of the icy grip and stood on the bank waiting for the shock to subside. It was the first of several river crossings for the day, and definitely not the largest.
Our trek took us through the heart of a valley where the easy grass fields stretched out to disappear at the base of towering mountains with dry and barren peaks. After two days of vertical climb, my body was grateful for the flat terrain. Lea and I had intended to go to Boyle Flat Hut, which was another 15km, but once we arrived at Anne Hut we were mentally finished for the day.
This week is a pretty big week for milestones, the first was today when I hit the 2,000km of walking (cycling/kayaking included). More to come over the next few days!
Day’s Highlights: Easy, peaceful walk
04.02.2020 Day 99 (30km)
I was completely saturated with water. My hands looked like I had fallen asleep in the bath, my rain gear had started absorbing moisture instead of repelling it, and I was quite dramatically sure I would never be dry again. We attempted to keep a swift pace, but it still took quite a while to navigate through the mud, bumpy fields, rooty forests, and rock patches.
All I could think of the entire day was, “This is really pretty and all, BUT I’m ready for my zero day.”
Upon arriving in Boyle, which was nothing more than a little collection of buildings and a campsite, Lea and I said farewell to our hiking pal Jimmy and headed to the road. I hoped with all my might that someone would take pity on us and allow two soaking, smelly hikers into their car. Anticipating we might be standing there for quite a while, I was pleasantly shocked when five minutes later a couple pulled over and told us to toss our things in the boot.
They had been driving in the rain all day, and we had been hiking in it, so I think everyone was taken aback when we came out of the mountains to discover a world steaming in sunlight. As we pulled into the dry and hot town of Hamner Springs, I got another sweet surprise: almost all of my friends were still in the area.
Day’s Highlights: My friends are here!!!
05.02.2020 Day 100 (0km)
Today there is not one but two milestones to celebrate: it is my 100th day on trail AND I’m turning thirty! I hadn’t planned anything for my birthday. Assuming everyone would be all over the map, I didn’t want to put in the effort and end up disappointed. Instead I decided to leave fate up to the trail and see what happened, half expecting to be alone or with a bunch of new people I didn’t know.
Trail magic worked in my favor, landing me in Hamner Springs with pretty much my entire trail family to date. Some of them had intentionally waited for me, knowing it was my birthday. Others hadn’t known but been delayed by weather.
We started off with a pancake breakfast and then spent the day hanging out and catching up. It was a simple day. Simple and absolutely perfect in every way! My heart was full and a smile was permanently painted on my face. There was even a surprise cake made by a hiker I met only yesterday. I couldn’t have planned a better day if I had tried and was utterly content and overjoyed to be with so many people that I have come to truly care about.
Day’s Highlights: Absolutely Everything!
