Te Araroa: Storm on the Horizon
13.03.2020 Day 137 (38km)
I really love it when things just work out. My original plan had been to hitch out to the Kepler Track two days in a row and do day hikes on either end of the circular track. Upon arriving in Te Anau, I discovered that Aliss had a similar but far superior plan. Her friend Amy was driving down from Wanaka. They were going to start early and hike as far as they could then back out. This eliminated time required for hitching and the risk of having to walk back if no lift could be found.
The three of us set out in the wee hours of the morning and began the trek under morning cloud cover. The way was mostly flat and when there was elevation gain it was steady and gradual. Moving through the ceiling of clouds and up above the treeline, we paused to look out on the islands scattered across a sea of white.
Following the advice of others, we continued along the ridgeline past Luxmore Hut, to an emergency shelter standing sentinel over a glossy fjord. The wind had picked up but the path was never narrow enough to ignite my nerves. From the porch of the emergency shelter we had a filling lunch and watched the keas fly above in search of mischief.
I was grateful for the chance to hike with Aliss and Amy, as I would not have ventured as far alone. Not to mention they were excellent company.
On our return journey, we detoured to the summit of Luxmore, only five minutes’ climb from the main track. The wind was quite aggressive on the peak, so we lingered only long enough to snap a few pictures. Then it was back to Te Anau to meet up with Jimmy for pizzas and beer.
Day’s Highlights: The view of the fjord
14.03.2020 Day 138 & 15.03.2020 Day 139 (0km)
As so often happens with rest days, I was struggling to decide whether or not to take one more. The first had been busy with errands, but not entirely restful. When Will and Alex arrived in town, however, my decision was pretty much made.
It had been a while since I’d last seen them and a catchup/day off together was entirely necessary. We started off with breakfast at The Sandfly Cafe, horrible name but great food. Then we watched a documentary of the Fjordlands at the local cinema before heading to the home of a friend of Will’s family for the night.
Day’s Highlights: The luxurious double bed
16.03.2020 Day 140 (0km)
Over the past couple days I’ve felt like I was living in a bubble watching the world go mad. Covid-19 has consumed everyone’s minds.
Where I once had a clear cut plan, now I’m sitting in limbo weighing my options. Shannon, my best friend, was flying out in a week with her boyfriend for a visit. Now, that’s not possible. My intention was to get a job somewhere in the South Island once she left. However, now I won’t have any of my clothes or personal affects that she was bringing over with her.
My heart says, go home, be with family, and wait for the chaos to settle; especially cause I don’t really have the things I need (like my laptop) to stay in New Zealand. Logic says, stay here, get a job as planned to save money, and learn to live without. Ultimately, I won’t be able to make a decision until after the TA is completed. Things are changing so rapidly that I might not even be able to get home.
Day’s Highlights: A delicious dinner with lovely people
