Te Araroa: The Greenstone Track

09.03.2020 Day 133 (16km)

After two nights in a row of hostel horror stories, I took my sweet time getting out of bed. The plan was to hitch as far as I could back to the track, which picked up on the other side of Lake Wakatip. If the hitches went poorly, I would stay at the YHA in Kinloch; if they went well, I’d hike out to the first hut. 

After ten minutes of waiting on the outskirts of Queenstown, a lovely Kiwi couple pulled over and offered me a lift to Glenorchy. They were on holiday from Wellington, and had nothing planned other than a leisurely day drive. By the time we arrived in the quaint town of Glenorchy, they had made up their minds to take me all the way to Kinloch, as they had never been before.

We strolled the shores of Glenorchy, and decided to have a quick coffee at the local cafe before heading onward. I asked if I could treat them to coffee and scones, since they had been kind enough to give me a lift. They adamantly refused, insisting that they needed to buy me a coffee as I was a guest in the country. 

I can’t wait till I make enough money someday, so I can pay forward all of the kindness I’ve received through my travels and back home. 

The town of Kinloch wasn’t large enough to really be considered a town. There was a YHA, a campground, and a few scattered houses. I thanked the couple to the point where I sounded like a broken record, and said farewell as I turned onto the 12km gravel road that led to the TA. 

With only three days of food, my pack felt uncharacteristically light, and the new shoes I bought in Queenstown hugged my feet like gloves. Halfway down the road I heard a vehicle approaching from behind. Figuring it couldn’t hurt to try my luck, I stuck out my thumb. The campervan drove up ahead of me before pulling to the side and offering to take me all the way to the trailhead. 

Day one of this section felt like a reward after all the other bits I’d hiked. The ups and downs were gradual, the track maintained and clearly marked. Trees provided shade from the scorching sun, and a river served as a constant source of water. There were even bridges for every crossing. I felt spoiled as I moved swiftly along, chatting with John, a fellow Californian I’d heard about but hadn’t met until then. 

As the end of the TA draws nearer, I often find myself wrestling with a mixture of emotions. Today, however, I simply felt joy and ease. 

Day’s Highlights: Making it to the hut instead of having to stay in Kinloch

10.03.2020 Day 134 (28km)

I screamed and flung my shoes away from me. They were still airborne when the realization dawned, “There are no snakes in New Zealand.” Without bothering to retrieve my discarded footwear, I ran back inside the hut and exclaimed, “Alight, who put the rubber snake in my shoe?” 

The room erupted in laughter; I joined in, shaking my head as a huge smile spread across my face. Apparently, the snake was an ongoing joke on trail among a group of friends I rarely hiked with but often saw in town. Now, I had officially been added to the snake club. 

After collecting my shoes, the snake, and some clothes I had laid out to dry, I walked down to the lake for a quick sunset picture. Clouds huddled together at the end of the valley, gradually fragmenting to permit the sun’s illumination to reach the landscape. It was a refreshing sight after a long day of rain and bogs. Less than three hundred kilometers to Bluff, and I am so ready!

Day’s Highlights: Getting warm and cozy in my sleeping bag

11.03.2020 Day 135 (28km)

Each day on this section I’ve been keeping my eyes peeled for Lord of the Rings filming locations. Dom and Nadia told me ages ago that Mavora Lakes was riddled with them. There’ve definitely been a few spots that looked extremely familiar, and apparently the hut we are staying in tonight borders Fangorn Forest. It’s the spot where actor Viggo Mortensen broke his foot after kicking an Uruk-Hai helmet. 

My spirits were pretty low this morning, hanging close to the earth like the dark grey clouds surrounding the lake. It wasn’t until I reached the forest track that my disposition lightened, along with the sky. I was cruising along, watching the fantails flit between the branches, and stopped only when a chubby robin hopped onto the path to investigate me. 

It was early when I arrived at the hut. The sun shone warm and welcoming on the porch, and there wasn’t a sand fly in sight. Before beginning my daily dose of yoga, I basked in the heat of day, letting the light wash over my pale stomach and arms. 

John and I were the only TA hikers at the hut that night, along with two others who were hiking the Greenstone Track during their weekend. We sat around chatting and playing card games until night claimed the land and a chill crept into the air. 

Day’s Highlights: Super cute hut!

12.03.2020 Day 136 (28km)

I didn’t take a single picture today. Any of the photos included in this section of the blog are from other days. Having been warned by northbound hikers that the bit between Kiwi Burn Hut and the road was boggy, slow, and unpleasant, I elected to take the gravel road. 

This wasn’t as easy as I thought it was going to be, as first I had to hop over not one, but three fences, which I felt entirely terrible about. I’m quite certain I was trespassing on private property for a good fifteen minutes. 

Once on the road, I plugged in my headphones and power-walked to the main highway. Don’t fret, I did stop for lunch and snacks, but nothing notable was seen or experienced. 

Though cars were few and far between, it didn’t take long before a man from Alabama pulled over and offered me to lift into Te Anu, where I would be doing my resupply. He enjoyed talking about the TA as it reminded him of the time he did that Appalachian Trail. Both of us agreed we felt far safer sleeping in the middle of nature than we did at the sites accessible by car. 

Aliss and her mum were at the hostel when I arrived, along with Allisson and a few other hikers. It was so nice catching up with everyone over a lovely home cooked meal. Allisson was heading back to trail the next day, but Aliss had plans for a day hike of the Kepler Track, which happened to be exactly what I wanted to do as well. 

Day’s Highlights: Having a real cup of coffee.