Te Araroa: Able Tasman
20.01.2020 Day 84 (23km)
Well, I’m off the TA again, making up kilometers I skipped on the road sections. My side trip of choice, Able Tasman, a beautiful National Park along the northwest coast of South Island. Sarah and I took an early morning shuttle from Nelson so we could catch the earliest water taxi of the day.
They loaded us into the boat at the tour company, then towed it down to the water using a tractor. Since the tides go out by a few kilometers each day, sometimes they have to drive the boats quite far to launch them.
We stopped at some iconic rock formations along the way and just off an island to watch seals and their pups basking in the sun. Our boat cut through the glassy turquoise water like a sharp blade through silk. By the time we reached Totaranui the sun was high and the air clung heavy to our skin.
Sarah elected to take the day off and relax by the beach, so I set up the tent and left a few things behind before setting out on the Gibbs Hill Track. It climbed inland to an average view point, before descending to a coastal track that would take me back to Totaranui.
The blue of the waters inspired an overwhelming temptation to leap in and allow the color to absorb me in its depths. Only the height of the cliffs prevented me from succumbing to the impulse.
Eventually, the track led me down along the shoreline, where I strolled on the firm sands and enjoyed the steady hush of the waves. Some of the beaches were completely vacant, whereas others were bursting with trampers.
As the air began to cool, I found myself walking the dry dirt road back into camp. Sarah and I chatted about the day’s events over dinner, before settling in for an early night.
Day’s Highlights: Clear turquoise water for days!
21.01.2020 Day 85 (21km)
We had a very leisurely morning, taking advantage of the mild morning temps and beautiful surroundings. There was an inlet crossing, five kilometers down trail, which we wouldn’t be able to ford until one. So there was absolutely no sense in rushing.
The rolling track was shaded by ferns and trees, a pleasant change to the Gibbs Hill Track, which had been mostly exposed to the sun. Into the hills we climbed, then back down to the sapphire tides and flawless surf.
It was still a bit early when we arrived at the inlet, so we waited patiently and watched others hoist their packs above their heads and cross. When the tides withdrew sufficiently, it became a mass exodus from both sides as people hurried on to their destinations.
There was an Eco Lodge a couple kilometers past the crossing; neither of us protested the idea of stopping to have an early afternoon beer. With the heat, we were in no hurry to get to camp just to bake in a hot tent.
When Onetahuti Bay came into view, it caught my breath and carried it out to sea. The water was varying shades of peacock shimmering in the sunlight. I could have sat there for hours completely entranced, and felt regretful for not having booked that campsite.
However, Bark Bay turned out to be a pretty cool spot as well. The campsite was located on a tiny strip of land that turned into a peninsula during high tide. I had a quick swim before dinner, quickly drying off and dressing so the sandflies couldn’t inflict too much damage.
Day’s Highlights: Seeing how excited Sarah was to cross the estuary.
22.01.2020 Day 86 (27km)
The clouds were a relief after two sweltering days of sun, although the brilliance of the waters was slightly muted by the change. Still, I enjoyed the cool breeze, trickling streams, and bird songs that provided my melody for the track. Once again it was a series of rolling hills, although the trail became wider and more gradual the closer I got to the end.
I took a few detours, including one to Cleopatra Falls, which sported a natural waterslide, but was a bit crowded and touristy for my tastes.
Then I descended to Anchorage Bay for a lunch stop, selecting a secluded picnic table with a view of the beach. A couple of curious sparrows came to see if I had any scraps. They promptly snatched up the bits of tortilla I threw at them, before swooping away and leaving me to eat in peace.
The climb out of Anchorage was through sparse, arid hills, a microclimate I suppose. As sweat poured down my face, a small portion of me regretted the lunch detour. Then I came to the top of the climb and broke into a smile. I had been rewarded with a view of bays, islands, and inlets.
From then on the path was a gradual, almost flat, descent into lush forest, humming with cicadas. Bridges punctuated the path every few hundred meters, allowing for clear and easy passage over streams.
It was an uneventful stroll into Marahau and I was glad to have ventured into the more distant regions of the park over the past two days, where tourists were scarce, and I could feel alone with nature. At the end of the track, I stopped at a cafe for a drink and tart, before walking to the water taxi office to meet Sarah and wait for the shuttle back to Nelson.
Day’s Highlights: Excellent lunch spot.
