Te Araroa: The Queen Charlotte Track
14.01.2020 Day 78 (0km)
It was a beautiful day to take the ferry across to Picton. Birds raced the ship through the harbour and out towards the straight. It still amazes me how clean the water is in this part of the world. Back home, leaving LA, the water is always murky green or brown; but here it’s clear sapphire.
I spent most of the voyage chatting with another TA hiker while sitting in the sun at the back of the boat. Occasionally, we moved to one of the upper decks to enjoy the views, especially when we hit the sounds of the South Island.
Sarah and I spent the rest of the day wandering around Picton, a tiny coastal town with a lot of character. Tomorrow it’s back to the trail.
15.01.2020 Day 79 (19km)
After ten rest days I was anxious to get moving again. It would be a slow start: one because the physio told me to ease back into hiking. Two, I’ve definitely lost a bit of my trail fitness with all the eating and sitting on my bum. Three, Sarah (the same Canadian Sarah from my Australia Road trip blogs) is joining me for the first seven days. This will be her first multi-day, which is exciting for both of us: I get to share a part of my world with a close friend and she gets to try something new.
We took the water taxi from Picton to the start of the Queen Charlotte Track (QCT) at Ship Cove. Despite a promising forecast, there was a distinct chill to the air. As the boat cut through the choppy water of the sound, I had a moment outside to take in the view, before the bite of the wind drove me back inside.
After checking out the monument to Captain Cook, we took our first steps of the South Island TA, and they felt damn good! Since the QCT is a great walk it is superbly maintained and easy going, exactly what the doctor ordered.
Through the windows in the foliage we caught glimpses of the welcoming turquoise waters and ships peacefully sailing through the bay. Despites nagging hunger, we pushed on until we reached a proper lookout before taking lunch. Wekas, mischievous brown birds about the size of a chicken, wandered around the clearing begging for food scraps. These birds literally steal anything: toiletry bags, food, they even had a go at a yoga mat.
Further along we encountered a series of sandy beaches, secluded holiday homes, and classy eco lodges that probably cost a fortune. Since our tastes were a bit more modest, we settled in at Madsens Point campsite. There were a series of flat grassy patches on a hill overlooking the bay, hammocks, and a food shelter…what more could we need? After pitching the tent, I took a rest in a hammock and watched the wind chop its way through the water, while Sarah treated herself to a solar shower.
It feels good to be back on the trail and I’m ready to experience all the beauty South Island has to offer.
Day’s Highlights: Moving my body again
16.01.2020 Day 80 (26km)
It’s been a pretty chilly day, though the sun did grace us with its presence a few times, it was only ever long enough to slightly thaw my body. Even so, the views of the sounds were pristine as we hiked up through the hills past Madsens.
Once again we found a lookout for lunch, detouring slightly up a hill to Eatwells. It was worth the extra sweat. The world was a blue-green tortoise shell as far as the eye could see. I would have stayed there all day, were it not for the cold that began to creep into my muscles.
Ten kilometers later we arrived at our camp, which also boasted a spectacular view. About fifteen minutes after our arrival, we were unexpectedly surprised by Quinn. He had changed his cycle route since we last saw him, and was almost as surprised as we were at the chance encounter.
The next few hours flew by as we caught up and got acquainted with Aliss, a TA hiker who had just started South Island. We waited until the sun slipped behind the hills, igniting the clouds with orange-pink hues, before retreating to our warm sleeping bags.
Day’s Highlights: The turquoise of the water when the sun hit it
17.01.2020 Day 81 (31km)
It was the first 30+ kilometer day since the “Wellington Week Away” and I definitely feel it tonight. Sarah, Aliss, and I spent the day powering up the hills, pausing every so often to enjoy scenic lookouts or catch our breath. There were a lot more people on the QCT, probably because we were at the end of the track and it is a popular day hike area.
The trail had pulled away from the natural, thick forests and transformed into a drier, rocky terrain which sucked the heat from the sun. The dips back into the foliage were such a relief, causing us to slow our pace and enjoy the cooler air.
As with the two previous days, the ocean water was entrancing, forcing us to take a rest in the shade of eucalyptus trees near the edge of a bay. Two ducks came over to see if we had any snacks and were severely disappointed when I told them they had to let me pet them first. In the end no petting or snacks were exchanged.
Our camp for the night was the back garden of a tavern in Linkwater. We enjoyed beers and burgers before settling in for another cold night.
Day’s Highlights: Hot shower at the tavern
18.01.2020 Day 82 (32km)
Other than a five kilometer road section outside of Havelock, the walk today was lovely. It began with a scenic hill climb overlooking an estuary, which was much easier than my trail app insinuated. Then we had a long dusty walk through gravel lanes and farmland. Deep emerald timber hills extended upwards, surrounding us in a bowl of nature.
Unfortunately, a couple of the streams listed no longer existed, which resulted in us running out of water for a few kilometers. This was remedied by an extended stop alongside the Pelorus River, where Sarah had a swim and I took in the gentle breeze from the shady banks.
We finished off the day dodging cow pies and clambering over fallen trees, until we finally arrived at Pelorus Bridge. It was pretty late, so we gave ourselves a time limit of thirty minutes. If we couldn’t get a hitch to Nelson by then, we would tent at the campsite by the bridge and try again in the morning.
Fifteen minutes later we were zooming towards Nelson.
Day’s Highlights: Sitting by the Pelorus River
19.01.2020 Day 83 (0km)
Normally, I wouldn’t take a zero day after only four days of hiking. However, the physio said to take it easy and logistically we had to in order to get to Able Tasman. This coastal area is not part of the TA; it is however, a Great Walk which means advance booking for campsites is required. So, when we planned the trip we gave ourselves an extra day, just in case the QCT took longer than expected or we couldn’t get a hitch into Nelson.
It was a good thing too because I ended up needing to change out my shoes, as the pair I bought was NOT working.
Day’s Highlights: Having a lie-in
