Te Araroa: Wanaka

27.02.2020 Day 122 (24km)

I’m never climbing anothing mountain in my life! That was the reoccurring thought that ran through my brain several times as I fought to remain upright against the wind on the thin ridges. I love heights; I think they’re amazing and the views are often unmatchable, but the second my footing feels insecure or there is an increased chance of falling, I’m an utter wreck.

Coming down from Pakituhi Hut would have been spectacular were it not for the wind. The sky was clear and the sapphire blue Lake Hawea shone in the sunlight like a jewel fixed in a ring of commanding mountains. I hardly noticed the white tipped Mt Aspiring in the distance; my focus was intent on the loose rock terrain, the force of the wind, and the angle of the gusts. 

I dug my trekking poles into the dirt and waited for a particularly aggressive gale to pass. Sometimes when fear gnaws at my heart and leaves me wondering if I’m actually going to make it out alive, I think, “What the fuck have I gotten myself into?” A little voice called Reason usually relates the facts to me: countless people have walked the same path, some in worse conditions, and they’ve been fine. In the moment I’m quite bad at listening to reason; fear is too strong. 

When it’s all said and done, however, I feel foolish for being so afraid of nothing. I wish there was an off switch for fear. Perhaps in time it will lessen, as confidence grows, but I doubt it will ever completely disappear. 

Anyways, the wind was awful and continued to bowl me over as we walked along the shores of Lake Hawea…at least we weren’t on the ridges anymore. We stopped for lunch and watched the trees sway and the mountains move from behind a clear pane of glass. I studied the range for a moment, basking in all their glory, and thought, “Yeah, I’d do that again.” 

Day’s Highlights: I feel like I’ve had “not dying” as my highlight multiple times over the last few months, but to be honest, once again I have to go with: Not dying

28.02.2020 Day 123 (0km)

The leaves of the vineyard vibrated with drops of rain pouring down from above. From the comfort of the sofa, I watched the grey clouds haunt the horizon, shifting subtlety as they lightened their load. 

A former colleague of Will’s dad had offered to put us up for a night or two. It was a nice change, being in a real home, having my own room, and a freshly prepared meal. During a lull in the storm, Will and I went into town to get some information about a side hike from the DOC (Department of Conservation) info center. I was also keen to get a look at the area, as Wanaka was one of the places I was considering for work. 

It was a quaint little tourist town, surrounded by beautiful mountains and hugging the shores of a massive lake. To be honest I felt like I was in Switzerland rather than NZ; just something about it reminded me a bit of Interlaken, only there were less trees. The center was filled with shops of both a practical and tourist nature, a good balance. 

Almost as soon as we returned to the vineyard, the deluge resumed. 

Day’s Highlights: Relaxing for a bit

29.02.2020 Day 124 (15km)

I don’t like skipping non-road sections of the TA. So when we were picked up in Albert Town and taken to the vineyard in Wanaka, I knew I would want to go back and walk the lake and river section. So, today, on our second “rest day,” I stuck my thumb out and smiled at oncoming traffic. 

Two guys pulled over a few minutes later. They were off to watch their friend propose to her boyfriend, it being Leap Year and all. We chatted for a bit about how they thought it would go and how they would be extremely offended if they were not invited to the wedding. I told them a bit about the trail before we said our goodbyes outside a Patisserie in Albert Town. 

I didn’t feel like I was on the TA as I moved swiftly down the cycle path. I felt like I was taking a jaunt at home or around my university. Halfway through the walk, I took off my shirt and let the sun caress my back and stomach (they don’t see daylight on the TA). 

The lake was extremely inviting, so when I found a secluded spot, I decided to take a little dip. The sun dried my body on a rock and watched the gentle waves caress the smooth grey-stone beach. There was no rush, this was after all my rest day. 

Day’s Highlights: Walking, it was lovely

01.03.2020 Day 125 (26km)

I knew I had to be close; the trees were thinning and I was getting minor glimpses of the glaciers and Mt Aspiring. The treeline was probably just around the corner. I had told myself this multiple times over the fifteen minutes since I crossed the waterfall. Then I would glance up as if for confirmation, only to be confronted by more trees. 

Early that morning I had made for the highway and hoped for an easy hitch. It took three separate lifts, but I made it to Mt Aspiring National Park and was on the trail to Cascade Saddle by ten. Will and Alex were meant to join me, but they had taken their time getting ready, so I left without them. 

Initially, we had wanted to reach the saddle as a day trip, but that was a 30km hike, some of it treacherous and straight uphill. In other words it would have been a ten hour day, not including the hour and a half hitch in each direction. 

My goal was to make it to the treeline where there was a modest plateau from which to view the valley. The only problem was I didn’t know how far away the treeline was, or if I was even close. There was also the concern of getting back to the car park early enough to secure a hitch back to Wanaka. I only had a day pack so there was no way that I could simply pitch my tent and bunk down for the night if things went poorly. 

After a long debate of should I stay or should I go, I decided to make the safe choice and turn around. With each step back I had to battle the urge to turn around and keep climbing. A pang of regret and disappointment sat firmly in the pit of my stomach as Mt Aspiring Hut came back into view. 

Salt was added to the wound when another hiker informed me the treeline was a mere thirty minutes from the waterfall. Fifteen minutes more and I would have been there! On top of that, there was no issue in securing a lift: three different people offered me their assistance on the return hike. I could have climbed AND relaxed on the platform. Oh well, hindsight is 20/20. 

Day’s Highlights: The views throughout the day were breathtaking, even if they weren’t from the treeline.