Te Araroa: Motatapu Track
02.03.2020 Day 126 (25km)
It was another flip-flop morning. There was the temptation to stay an extra day, but I knew one day would turn into two, because the weather forecast predicted lots of rain for Tuesday. So after dragging my feet for the better part of the morning, I set out to walk along the lake from Wanaka to Glendhu.
It was a lovely day with cloud spotted skies and passive breezes. A small crowd was gathered around the Instagram famous Wanaka Tree. I snapped a few pictures as I passed, not bothering to take a selfie or ask anyone to do the honors. (Crazy thing, about a week later the Wanaka Tree was attacked; someone hacked the lower branch off with a saw. I feel very fortunate to have seen it before it was vandalized.)
My pace was slower than normal; I was tired and didn’t see the point in over exerting myself. During the morning the track was quite exposed to the sun, however the afternoon was well shaded, following the side of a river. I climbed up above the treeline just before Fern Burn Hut. After hiking with others for three weeks, being solo again was quite refreshing.
Day’s Highlights: The tranquility of walking around the lake.
03.03.2020 Day 127 (0km)
Every forecast was in agreement: rain all day long. So I decided to take a rest day at Fern Burn Hut, along with ten other people. I needed a break and for once it actually was a real rest day, with no laundry, resupply, errands, or hours at a computer blogging.
The rain didn’t last, it petered off around midday. A nagging urge to push on to the next hut almost had me packing my bag. Fortunately, I put my foot down, reminding myself that I deserved a rest and there was no reason to rush. So I settled in with my book and enjoyed the lively conversations throughout the day.
Day’s Highlights: The mid-day nap
04.03.2020 Day 128 (16km)
Taking a day off was the best decision I could have made. I embarked this morning with renewed zeal. It was bitterly cold, so I kept my extra layers on for most of the day.
There were three climbs, each quite steep and at times narrow. One of the hillsides was riddled with gaping cracks and I wondered how long it would be before the entire thing crumbled. I wouldn’t be surprised if next summer there was a rerouted track due to the disappearance of a hillside.
From the summit of the final climb I paused to look back at Lake Wanaka. The day was absolutely delicious! The hiking wasn’t easy but it didn’t feel exhausting either: the perfect balance of effort and enjoyment.
An alternate route, over Cascade Saddle, had been suggested instead of the Motatapu Track. I was glad to have taken the traditional route, as I can always return to do the entirety of Cascade Saddle in the future.
Day’s Highlights: Awesome mood all day and excellent energy levels
05.03.2020 Day 129 (23km)
If someone had taken a knife and sliced off one of my toes, I’m quite certain I wouldn’t have felt a thing. Walking in and along the river was the fastest route into town, but it was also the coldest.
Frost had claimed the land overnight, and unfortunately someone had left the hut door ajar, so it was freezing inside and out when I woke. At least the sun was quite penetrating, so it wasn’t long before I was removing layers. It did nothing for the temperature of the water however.
Other than having ice blocks for feet, the day was nice. We passed through a derelict town called Macetown, which was really a single stone building with a rusting roof. Then we climbed Big Hill Saddle and descended through grassy hills and a peaceful forest section. It was a nice change to the sun exposed hills of the past few days.
Once in Arrowtown, we booked into a holiday park and went out for burgers and beer. Our server was super entertaining and let us in on the secret menu. Thankfully, it never got as cold as the night before because we were tenting.
Day’s Highlights: A hot shower!
