Te Araroa: Running From the Rain

10.11.2019 Day 21 (22km)

We took out time this morning getting a lift back to the trail, stopping along the way for coffee. It was an easy yet difficult day. Difficult due to the amount of road walking, which kills my joints; easy in regards to the flat terrain.

Dom and Nadia were staying with a friend in Waipu, whereas I was hiking on to Waipu Cove. It was the first night that I would arrive somewhere and not know anyone, which I found quite refreshing. A group I had heard about but never met happened to be staying at the campsite as well: Kate, Will, James, and Alex. We sat in the lounge getting to know each other, while a lightning storm raged outside and hiker midnight drifted by.

Day’s Highlights: Knee feeling a bit better, cool new friends

11.11.2019 Day 22 (30km)

I pushed farther today than I thought possible, but my body was feeling good so I figured, why not? There was almost every type of terrain: road walk, gravel track, forest trail, farmland, beach cliff, and sandy shore. I hiked alone, something I think I’ve been needing lately, and realized that  I tend to hike faster on my own. I think it is because I get into a zone and just keep pushing on, vs getting distracted through conversation. 

Rain was forecasted for the entire day, but didn’t actually hit until about an hour before the end of my hike. Throughout the day I debated on tenting vs a roof over my head. When it started pissing rain I was grateful I had called ahead to Allen and Lisa, who run a traveler’s rest out of their home in Mangawhai. 

I looked like a drowned rat by the time I reached the haven of their porch. Lisa showed me where to put my wet things and offered me a cup of hot tea. Along with the four I had met the previous evening, two other Americans, and a German women were joining the sleepover crew. I thoroughly enjoyed the evening drinking, eating, laughing, and playing music with the rest. 

Day’s Highlights: Great company

12.11.2019 Day 23 (23km)

When it wasn’t pouring rain or hail the day was absolutely lovely! Clouds passed over the dunes and out to sea transforming the sky into a swirl of tranquil color. Throughout the day a wave of weather would descend, forcing me to take cover and find gloves to keep my fingers from freezing. 

There were a couple of river crossings on the beach…which sucks. Sand, breathable shoes, and water are an ideal combination for blisters. Thankfully, I was lucky and did not to acquire any new ones. 

It was early when we reached Pakiri Holiday Park but I elected not to push on. The next leg was a whole lot of forest and I had zero desire to embark on those muddy paths while it was still spotting rain. Besides, my feet were a bit done. 

Day’s Highlights: Laying on the couch in the holiday park with my feet up.

13.11.2019 Day 24 (28km)

At 11.5 hours, today was my longest hiking day yet. I could have stopped sooner; I could have given in; but as previously mentioned I don’t like hiking forests in the rain. Tomorrow we are expecting rain, so I was determined to get through the Dome Forest in one day. The distance wasn’t the challenge, it was the elevation which took me over multiple peaks. 

A 400m climb up a grassy hill marked the starting kilometers for the day, then down a slippery clay slide on the other side. As I tested footholds and steps I wondered at how much worse it would be in the pouring rain.

There were muddy patches throughout the forests, but overall it wasn’t terrible, and I was able to move along at a relatively steady pace. It was the first day I had listened to music on the trail, electing to walk alone and realizing that my soul was in need of a melody. At times I joined up with Dom and Nadia; all three of us wanted to camp in the same area that evening. As I reached the peak of the final incline, Jeff Buckley came to the end of “Hallelujah.” I couldn’t have picked a more appropriate song for that moment. 

There was a bit of bouldering and a huge flight of stairs, before we crossed into a sparse residential area where we camped in someone’s yard and were offered fresh eggs for the morning. 

Day’s Highlights: Finished the forest! Woo!

14.11.2019 Day 25 (26km)

I woke to the sound of raindrops tinkling on my tent like fingers on piano keys. Though I always attempt to wait for a lull to disassemble my shelter, it always ends up raining even harder the moment I’m out in the open.

Compared to yesterday, today was absolutely golden, with its easy roads and well maintained forest tracks. Each step had me feeling thankful for getting Dome Forest and all of its mud out of the way the previous day. 

The rain eased up hours before it was meant to, leaving me hot and eager to remove my rain gear. I was in the best of moods as I reached the 500km mark; 1/6th of the way done with the TA, such a crazy feeling of accomplishment!

Carolyn and I met up and finished the day’s walking together; pausing in the sun to dry our shoes and tents. My favorite part of the hike was the last 8km. A swinging bridge led us over a river and into a pine forest that smelled fresh with new life. The temperature dropped as we ventured deeper into the woods, and a sea of ferns gradually supplanted the pines. I was perfectly content and happy. 

Day’s Highlights: I’m still surviving after 500km!