Te Araroa: Roads

15.11.2019 Day 26 (8km kayak, 25km hike)

Emotionally, this was the most difficult day thus far. It’s gotten me thinking about how I want to and why I am doing this hike. Up until today road walks were manageable, now I never want to see another road. Anyways, I’m getting ahead of myself.

It was an easy start from Puhoi; I got to sleep in, have a cup or three of coffee, and casually stroll down to the kayak hire along the river. The 8km stretch of river wound its way through peaceful farmland and past the main highway south. The water transformed from murky brown to clear turquoise as we neared the end of the waterway. 

Someone was waiting for us at a boat ramp to collect the kayaks and return our bags. After a quick snack and some wandering around trying to locate the trail, we climbed a series of stairs over a forested hill and down to a rocky beach. 

The tide was still quite high, but none of us even took a moment to consider taking an alternate route. We plodded on until we came to an area were the rocks disappeared into the sea. Our options: scale a wall to dry land or slide into the water and walk across. Audrey expertly climbed sideways and reached the other side untouched by the sea. I, however, was not so graceful, falling into the water halfway through my attempt. Injury free and laughing I crossed over to the other side and clambered out; it was only knee deep. It wasn’t long before we reached several more impassable sections. Since my shoes were already fish tanks I didn’t even hesitate. 

With the beach behind us the TA turned to the streets. Initially it was along bike paths and sidewalks, not my favorite but still alright. Then when we reached the busiest road, the pavement disappeared and we were left with nothing but a narrow shoulder. Cars and trucks zoomed by, the wake of air testing my balance on the uneven ground. 

Normally, I’m pretty ok with heavy traffic, but this, along with several sketchy road crossings, pushed me over the edge. A sensation I hadn’t experienced in years began to course through my veins. Panic returned to my heart, quickening its pace to that of a hummingbird’s wings. My PTSD from an accident almost ten years past, was returning to haunt me. If I could have escaped the road, I probably would have been fine, but the last 8km of the day were along windy roads and blind corners. 

I walked on, knowing if I stopped I might not have the strength to start again. Tears rolled down my cheeks as I futility attempted to convince myself I was alright. I took shaky deep breaths, almost regaining control until the next car sped past, its tyres on the white line where I had just been standing. 

By the time I reached camp I was emotionally drained and fractured. More crying erupted in the shower before I was finally able to ease into a fragile state of calm. 

There is more road walking to come, but after today I don’t know if I can mentally and emotionally cope with it. 

Day’s Highlights: Not being hit by a car

16.11.2019 Day 27 (20km)

I could have waited to wade through the estuary at four in the afternoon, but I didn’t see the point of sitting around for that long doing nothing. There was an alternate route, though partially closed, but it looked like a forestry road of some kind connected the open part of the track, with the main highway. 

Birds twittered in the branches of the shoreline trees as I skipped over mud puddles and climbed through the branches of a fallen tree. I was still a bit shaken from the day before so I focused on the tranquility of nature, willing each breath to heal me. 

It wasn’t long before I reached a quiet country road, at least it would be some time before I was surrounded by fast traffic again. Not five minutes later a man pulled over in his work van and offered me a lift to the highway. I gratefully accepted and told him I was trying to get around the estuary so I could pick up the TA on the other side. 

“Oh, I have a job in that area, I can take you the whole way.” 

Conversation with Saan was pleasant and relaxed. He told me about his son who wanted to take a gap year to travel to Europe before entering Uni. I shared my experiences doing working holiday as a way to actually afford travel. By 10:30 I was waving goodbye from the Long Bay Regional Park. 

The TA continued along sea cliffs, shoreline, and residential neighborhoods with houses I could only dream of being able to afford. Once I reached Brown’s Bay, I waited for Dom, Nadia, and Carolyn to catch up so we could have lunch together. They had hitched back to the trail directly from Stillwater and were only twenty minutes behind me. We shared an epic feast that fed both stomachs and spirits. Then, nearly bursting, we dragged our feet ten kilometers further to the holiday park in Takapuna. 

Day’s Highlights: The lift from Saan 

17.11.2019 Day 28 (10km)

Made it to Auckland! Back to the point from which I started and almost to the 600km mark. I’ve decided to walk as much as I feel comfortable with and the second the roads get hairy my hitching finger is coming out. 

Coming up off the beach and over the hill to see the city occupying the horizon was validation that I can absolutely do whatever I set my mind to. Everything was wonderful in that moment. Only 20km and I’ll be ⅕ of the way through the TA. I’m still trying to wrap my head around it all. 

Day’s Highlights: New shoes and socks in Auckland

18.11.2019 Day 29 (0km)

Sometimes zero days don’t actually feel like zero days. There are so many chores: resupply, blog, bank, repairs, etc. By the time everything is said and done no REAL resting actually occurred. Part of me desires to take another day off, but I’ll have to change accommodation, so again not really resting. Then there is the fact that Auckland is quite pricey and it would be more prudent to wait till I’m somewhere cheaper to take a longer break. 

Day’s Highlights: Seeing my good friend Enzo

19.11.2019 Day 30 (33km)

Therefore, I pushed on to Auckland Airport as fast as my legs could carry me and hopped on a bus to Huntly, completely skipping 100km, including some of the most treacherous of the road walking sections. An even number like that will make it easy when looking at the trail apps…I just subtract 100 to figure out how far I’ve come. 

After wrestling with myself for most of the day, I reached a solid decision: I came on this hike for emotional, mental, spiritual, and physical growth and healing, road walking has succeeded in doing the exact opposite. It has caused a mental breakdown, panic attacks, injured joints, and a shitty disposition. This is NOT what I am here for. 

In lieu of the four days of road walking I plan to do some side hikes, not included in the TA route. No, I won’t be able to say I walked the entire length of NZ, but I will be able to say I walked 3,000km. 

The hike through Auckland wasn’t terrible by any means. Yes, it was a bit boring and loud. Then there were also those weird explosions near Mt Eden that made me wonder if a terrorist attack was occurring, but other than that there were pleasant parks and coastal regions. There was even a public park full of sheep wandering around wherever they pleased. Around 600km (woo!) I stopped for lunch at a farm full of baby animals. It was there that I began researching bus schedules. 

It was 15:00 and there was a bus leaving Auckland International Airport at 17:55…I could walk 13km in two hours and fifty-five minutes right? To say I practically jogged the rest of the way would be an accurate description. Fortunately, even with a strange detour due to a road closure (which was being guarded by some mafia-looking men) I made it with twenty minutes to spare. Also in case you’re wondering, the airport wasn’t a detour….it’s on the trail. 

Day’s Highlights: 600km in 30 days