Te Araroa: Pushing Past Hamilton

20.11.2019 Day 31 (23km)

Some mornings prove difficult to get out of bed. Lately, I’ve found myself questioning why I’m putting myself through this hike. This morning was one of those days, fortunately the feeling was fleeting. After a 6km stretch of road (no I didn’t skip all the roads), I was immersed in a rooty forest. Drizzle drifted through the ferns, landing in soft kisses on my face. The scent of fresh earth fueled my steps as I climbed higher into the hills. 

Despite the damp weather, the mud was nothing compared to Puketi and Raetea. There was, however, a slight disagreement between my toes and one of the roots. My ankle tried to continue the argument a bit further on and lost. Luckily, it was able to get away with nothing but bruised pride vs a serious injury. 

Earlier that morning I had posted in the Trail Angels Facebook group asking for suggestions on accommodation between the Hakarimata steps and Hamilton. Entirely lacking a plan for the evening, I was a bit nervous of having to hike farther than I desired. 

As I descended the steps, a gentle brook came to hug the path. Its melodies sang to my heart and in that moment I knew everything was going to turn out alright. Sure enough, when I turned my data on I had a message from Regina, who lived near the base of the steps. She and her family had started hosting TA hikers this season and had been thoroughly enjoying the experience. I gratefully accepted her offer to join them for dinner and sleep on the floor of their spare room. 

As the skies darkened, the stress of the morning was long forgotten and I lost myself in hearty conversation with my lovely hosts. 

Day’s Highlights: Regina, Anton, Gabrielle, and their adorable pets

21.11.2019 Day 32 (37km)

I can’t tell where one ache ends and the next begins; I’m certain practically every fiber of my being is sore. Elevation was negligible today, but the journey was long, hot, and mostly pavement. The foot that fought with the root was beyond painful this morning, leaving me wondering whether I might have sustained a hairline fracture. I couldn’t even walk normally; my foot kept rolling sideways to avoid pressure on the first two toes. This unnatural gait led to additional issues, by the end of 37km the outer edge of my foot was on fire. 

The TA from Ngaruawahia to Hamilton follows a bike path along a steady river. Bird songs and hesitant breezes kept me company as I walked. A man stopped me to ask about my experience; he had hiked a northern portion of the TA a few years prior with his daughter. Then an older gentleman called me inside to have a cup of coffee with him and his wife.

Hamilton, was unimpressive, another city that I wasn’t keen to linger in. After walking through a very industrial section of town, the houses and roads gave way to farmland. Recently, someone had posted about aggressive bulls along the trail…I wish I had paid more attention to exactly where it was, because I was super paranoid every time I crossed a stile into a new paddock. I would stand there for a moment, scan the horizon and then sprint, which was actually only painful hobbling, over to the next stile.

Day’s Highlights: I stayed in a Beer Garden for the night and the owner was just a lovely human being. He even offered me a job for when I’m done with the TA

22.11.2019 Day 33 (24km)

I did a voice recording during my hike today, including all my thoughts thus far on the ease of navigating the TA. There are times when I come to a marker and ask, “Really? Is this really where you are telling me to go?”

The orange triangle just smiles back and continues to say, “Please turn left.” 

Left is down a hill that should probably include a support rope, or over a fence, or through a locked gate,or straight into a fallen tree the size of a house. 

There are other days when I feel like I’m playing “Where is Waldo.” I come to a fork with three well-worn paths, there are no markers, which one do I take? After picking one and walking for a bit, way in the distance I spot a flash of orange (Waldo). He is hanging out on one of the trails I didn’t select. 

Then just after a section that really could use more markers, I come to what I like to call the Vegas Strip. There is one obvious and well worn path and every third tree has an orange blaze. Come on guys…where were all the signs when I had ten different options? 

Needless to say each day is an adventure and entirely unpredictable. Today, for example, I walked into someone’s backyard where the owner was chilling with a morning cigarette. No, it wasn’t a mistake…it was the trail. 

Later in the day I walked through a pasture full of cows and their calves, sheep and their lambs. I did my best to keep my distance, not wanting to inspire any mama-defenses, but there were times when there was no way around. I found myself talking or singing to them, assuring them it was all fine, I didn’t want to hurt their babies, and I was just passing through. I also got lost in this area by following a well trodden path…it wasn’t Waldo, although I did find him eventually. 

Day’s Highlights: Earlier finish